Lots of kohlrabi info this week, as well as some very simple dishes like the Calabrian-style potatoes and peppers that is more than the sum of its parts. The savory chard pancakes are always a winner at my house or cooking classes and the fennel and kohlrabi salad with raisins and dill I adapted from the cookbook Jerusalem, by Yotam Ottolenghi is awfully good. Happy cooking!
Farcous (Savory Chard Pancakes)
Calabrian-style Peppers and Potatoes
Weeknight Veggie Curry (with Red Lentils and Coconut Milk)
Kohlrabi Notes
Kohlrabi and Fennel Salad with Dill
Chopped Salad of Fennel, Sweet Peppers and Carrots
Potato Leek Soup
Farçous (Savory Chard Pancakes)
–adapted from Around my French Table by Dorie Greenspan
I just taught these at a recent cooking class and out of 6 things we made this was the favorite dish.
They are an absolute cinch to make if you have a food processor. It takes 5 minutes to make the batter and a bit longer to fry them but they are so addictive. These are made all over Southwest France and I’m sure with variations of herbs and greens, but most typically they are made with chard, parsley and chives.
They also keep and freeze well and make great snacks. You can also experiment with different flours and combinations of flours if you’d like. Half whole wheat flour works well and I imagine spelt flour would too.
This recipe makes a lot of pancakes so you can cut it in half or make the whole thing and just save some for lunch the next day. I promise you won’t have trouble eating them up.
2 cups whole milk
Scant 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour (or half all-purpose and half whole wheat)
3 large eggs
½ cup chopped onion
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1/2 cup chopped parsley
2 tablespoons chives, chopped (optional)
10 Swiss chard leaves, washed, shaken dry and center rib and stems removed (can save for other use)
Salt (these need a lot of salt! Start with 1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt. Taste the first pancake and add more if they’re bland. They really need salt to lift up the flavors of the herbs and greens)
Freshly ground pepper
Vegetable oil or olive oil for pan-frying
For optional topping: a little salt, lemon zest and juice stirred into plain Greek or whole milk yogurt or just plain yogurt.
Preheat oven to 250 degrees and place a baking sheet in the oven.
Put milk, flour, eggs, garlic, herbs, salt and pepper in a food processor or blender. Mix until smooth. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper as needed. Add the chard leaves to the batter (little by little if you don’t have a lot of space) and blend, but don’t over blend. The mixture does not need to be homogenous and is better with a bit of variation in size of the chard leaf pieces.
You can make these pancakes large, like crepes (and use a crepe pan if you have one) or smaller, like regular pancakes. Pour about 1 tablespoon of oil into your pan (less if it’s a crepe/non-stick pan) and heat over medium-high heat. Add the batter to the pan for whatever size pancakes you’re making and cook until for a few minutes until the edges begin to brown and curl. Flip them over and cook them for a couple more minutes until evenly browned. Place in warm oven while you make the remainder of the pancakes.
These are wonderful with a dollop of yogurt (especially Greek yogurt) to which you can add a bit of lemon zest and little lemon juice. Make a green salad and you have a lovely dinner.
Chopped Salad of Fennel, Sweet Peppers and Carrots
Sweet, savory and crunchy and colorful. . . .adapt as you see fit.
1 large or 2 smaller bulbs fennel, trimmed
½ cup (or more) fennel fronds, roughly chopped
3-4 cups escarole (if you have some leftover) or any kind of lettuce or radicchio, thinly sliced
2 medium carrots, scrubbed and trimmed
2 sweet peppers, trimmed and very thinly sliced
¼ cup thinly sliced red onion (if you per chance have some leftover from last week)
½ cup walnuts or hazelnuts, toasted and roughly chopped
1 ½ tablespoons sherry or red wine vinegar
3 tablespoons olive oil
Pinch of sugar or drizzle of honey
Salt and plenty of freshly ground pepper
Cut the fennel in matchsticks or very thin slices. Cut the carrots into matchsticks. Toss all the vegetables and toasted nuts in a large bowl. Add dressing ingredients and toss well. Taste and adjust seasoning.
Calabrian-style Fried Peppers and Potatoes
This was one of my very favorite things to eat when I lived in Calabria (the toe of the Italian boot) more than 20 years ago. It doesn’t really get any simpler but you need to be brave with the heat and have good ventilation. And don’t skimp on the oil either.
4 sweet red peppers, washed, cored and seeded and cut into chunks about 1 ½ – 2 1/3 inches
3-4 medium firm fleshed yellow and/or red potatoes, well scrubbed (no need to peel) and cut into bite-sized chunks.
3 tablespoons olive oil (or a bit more if things dry out)
Sea salt
Heat the oil in the largest, heaviest skillet you have. When it’s hot but not smoking add the peppers and potatoes and toss well to coat with oil. Cook on high heat, stirring frequently until the both potatoes and peppers are tender and almost blackened around the edges. Season liberally with good sea salt. Serve hot.
Weeknight Veggie Curry (with Red Lentils and Coconut Milk)
This is at the top of my list for fairly quick, delicious and satisfying meals that use up most any vegetable you have on hand. You can use most any combination of vegetables from your share this week.
This recipe makes plenty so you can freeze half for dinner the following week or eat for lunches or just leftovers. You can make it more or less soupy so adjust amount of broth according to your taste.
If you have time briefly toast whole coriander and cumin seeds in a dry skillet, let cool and grind in a mortar and pestle. It only takes a couple of minutes and the results are worth it.
Oil
1 onion, diced (can add a leek here too if you’d like)
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds (optional)
1 teaspoon ground cumin (or half a teaspoon whole seeds–see headnote)
1 teaspoon ground coriander (or half a teaspoon whole seeds–see headnote)
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes or 1 fresh jalapeno or Serrano pepper, minced
3 potatoes, scrubbed and diced
2 carrots, scrubbed and diced
1-2 sweet peppers, sliced or diced
1-2 zucchini (if you have some leftover), diced
4 garlic cloves, roughly chopped or sliced
½ – 1 bunch chard, washed and leaves chopped (you can add the stems, diced, to the onion at the beginning)
1 1/2 cups red lentils
6 cups water or veggie bouillon broth or vegetable stock or water (or a little less if you want it quite thick)
Salt, to taste (you need quite a bit to bring all the flavors out)
1 can full fat coconut milk
1/2 cup or more mint and/or cilantro
Lime or lemon juice (optional)
White or brown rice or naan for serving (optional)
In a large soup pot heat 1 tablespoon of oil over medium-high heat. Add the mustard seeds and onions (and leeks, if using) and cook for about 5 minutes, turning the heat down to medium if the onion begins to color. Add the cumin and coriander and hot pepper and cook for a few more minutes, stirring often and be careful not to burn. Add a few tablespoons of the thickest part of the coconut milk and stir in well. Simmer for another minute or two and then add the potatoes, carrots, sweet peppers, zucchini (if using) and garlic. Cook for a 5 minutes. Now add the lentils, broth, remainder of coconut milk, chard and a teaspoon or so of salt, depending on how salty your broth is. Bring to a simmer and cook for about 20 minutes. Add the herbs and cook for another minute. Taste and adjust seasoning.
Serve hot over rice with a good squeeze of lime juice.
Kohlrabi Notes
Kohlrabi is a sweet, crunchy and versatile vegetable. It keeps very well (for weeks!) and is as good cooked as it is raw. It is also known as a German turnip and I can vouch for its ubiquity in Germany. I grew up enjoying it frequently in one of two preparations–braised and then finished with sour cream, dill and a splash of vinegar or just sautéed in olive oil. I have greatly diversified my repertoire now and love it just as much in slaws and other raw preparations.
Kohlrabi always needs peeling as the skin can be tough and fibrous. The flavor of the root is quite sweet with only a mild cabbage-y flavor.
One-line recipe from Chef Jenn Louis of Lincoln Restaurant and Sunshine Tavern: Slowly cook slivered garlic in butter. Add thinly sliced kohlrabi, lemon juice and salt. Finish with chopped parsley.
Kohlrabi and Fennel Salad
–inspired by Plenty by Yotam Ottolenghi
This salad is one of my favorite ways to use kohlrabi. The original calls for cabbage too but I’ve substituted fennel (albeit not as much) and while a different twist, is very good as well. The original recipe calls for dried sour cherries and I’ve always used golden raisins instead.
2 medium kohlrabi, peeled and cut into matchsticks about 2 inches long and 1/8 – ¼ inch wide
2 medium fennel bulbs, trimmed, halved or quartered and sliced as thinly as you can
1/2 bunch dill, roughly chopped
½ cup chopped fennel fronds
1 cup golden raisins (see headnote)
Grated zest of 1 lemon
3 tablespoons lemon juice
2-3 tablespoons good olive oil
1 garlic clove, minced or mashed with some salt on a cutting board with the side of a chef’s knife into a paste
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Put all ingredients in the large mixing bowl and mix everything together really well. Use your hands if you’d like. Let sit for 10 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning. You need quite a bit of salt to counteract the lemon.
Potato Leek Soup
This is such a classic soup, and for good reason. It’s delicate yet complex and just lovely. I like it with croutons and drizzle of olive oil and a bit of chopped parsley. It’s also good with toasted bread with fresh goat cheese.
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large onion, chopped (or 1-2 extra leeks)
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
Salt and freshly ground pepper
3 leeks, white and light green parts only, split lengthwise, washed, and thinly sliced
2-3 medium potatoes, peeled and cubed
6 thyme sprigs, leaves stripped
2 fresh sage leaves (optional), finely chopped
4 cups homemade veggie bouillon broth, chicken stock, or water
3 cups whole milk
Optional Toppings
Minced fresh parsley, sage, tarragon or a combination
Chopped fresh chives
Grated Parmesan or Gruyere
Croutons
Toasted Sunflower or Pumpkin Seeds
Melt the butter in a large pot over low to medium-low heat. Add the onion and garlic, salt and pepper, cover cook and cook for about 10 minutes, until the onion is soft but not colored. Add the remaining ingredients, along with a little more salt unless your broth or bouillon is very salty, increase the heat, and bring to a boil. As soon as the soup bubbles, turn the heat to low, mostly cover the pot, and simmer gently for 30-40 minutes, or until all the vegetables are mashably soft. Taste the soup and season generously with salt and pepper. You can serve the soup chunky or use an immersion blender to blend or transfer to a blender. The soup is good hot, at room temperature and even cold though I prefer hot. Garnish as you’d like.